Wednesday, December 29, 2010
By importing the scans into your 3D program, you can quickly trace the outline to get the basic 2D shape, and then extrude that to create a basic 3D shape.
Then, you can edit it and add the details. The outer side of a LEGO minifig's leg for instance is a little bit angled, and it has several holes in it. Using scans from the other sides, you can work out how big and where exactly those holes are.
The basic leg is pretty simple, although the top hole is a little bit more complicated, because it is intersected by the hole for the axle from the hips.
Of course it will be fun to make all the parts move just like a real LEGO minifig, so it will require a bit of testing to make the axles not too small and not too big, but just the right size. ;o)
And I think I will really recommend using thicker paper this time, because thinner paper might simply tear apart if you try to rotate the leg when it's a very tight fit...
Monday, December 27, 2010
I love papercraft, and I love LEGO, so why not combine the two, and make a big, paper version of the coolest minifig that LEGO ever created!
Kapitein Knoest (called captain Redbeard or captain Roger in English speaking countries) was the leader of the LEGO pirates all through the '90s.
In contrast to the earlier, "merry-go- happy" minifigures that all had the same, non-offensive "standard grin" facial expression, Kapitein Knoest had a rugged red beard, an eyepatch, a wooden leg and a hook for a hand.
No wonder everybody loved him. ;o)
Friday, December 24, 2010
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
I couldn't get back far enough to capture them all in one photo (due to a wall being in my way... ;o) so I copy-pasted several pictures together (in case you were wondering why the shelves were looking so crooked... ;o)
There still isn't enough room for some of my bigger models and my Advance Wars models, though, so they will have to stay where they are I guess. ;o
Here are some more pictures of paper models I built so far:
King of Red Lions
Advance Wars models
Star Trek models
models made by others: picture 1 and picture 2
Well, time to finish Mario so I can make some more! ;o)
Have fun building!
Sunday, December 19, 2010
As you can see, I made the final papercraft Mario a bit bigger than the test build, I think this is a nice size for him (about 20 cm).
At first I thought about making a warp pipe as a stand, but it was turning out bigger than I wanted, so I scratched that idea in favor of a simpler stand.
If you happen to have some green construction paper lying around though, you can easily make one tall cylinder and one bigger, flat one to make your own warp pipe of course!
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Sunday, December 12, 2010
It may take an extra sheet, but I think it can help a lot when building a new paper model. Some additional arrows and markings offer some extra reference, but now it's time for the final build and full instructions!
Thursday, December 9, 2010
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
After trying out several different hands, I also tried out different sizes, because the test build is quite small and I want to make him a bit bigger (about 20 cm).
So now I know everything I wanted to know, and I can change the last few things on the 3D model, unfold the new version, make the templates and build it for real, and make the instructions.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Since it was such a big change, I did a second test build, and I'm much happier with the way it looks now! ;o)
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Sometimes that's a good thing, but in this case, it's a bad thing, because it makes Mario look like Luigi...! ;o)
I was going to change the head a bit around the cheeks anyway, but I think it will be easier to make a new head rather than trying to fix this one. ;o)
Monday, November 29, 2010
My test builds are always quite "quick 'n' dirty", but it's enough to see what it will look like when finished, and which parts prove troublesome and need to be changed.
I'm pretty happy with the basic shape of Mario's body and how it came together, but I do plan on changing some things a bit, most notably the shoes. ;o)
Next on the list to be test built is Mario's head, stay tuned!
Saturday, November 27, 2010
At first glance, Mario's hat will be okay, I think (although you can't really be sure until after testbuilding it of course ;o)
So now I only have to unfold Mario's hands yet (because they're so similar, I'm only going to test build one of them, though ;o) and then I can actually start test building the parts this weekend!
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
As you can see, I don't think Paper(craft) Mario will have many parts; the shapes that he's made from are pretty basic. ;o)
I haven't really started test building yet; I think I'll unfold all the separate parts first so I can test build them all in one go.
Mario's body looks okay so far I think, although I might still change the pose of his legs and feet a bit if needed of course. ;o)
Monday, November 22, 2010
For this test build, though, I will keep them like this, so I can see whether or not the pose is okay; if it's not, it would mean I'd have to change the shoes twice... ;o)
Saturday, November 20, 2010
The people at Laboratory 424 made a customizable papercraft Super Mario diorama using a D.I.Y. poster magnet board, a bunch of Cubeecrafts, magnets and their imagination:
See how they did it and how to create your own here: link
And it doesn't have to be Mario of course, the possibilities are literally endless!
Have fun crafting! ;o)
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
I'm not sure about giving the hat a closed bottom, or only a row of glueing tabs to glue it to the head, but a test build later on will undoubtedly reveal which method will work best for this model.
I also changed the texture for Mario's mouth, I think it's another one of those examples that shows that a very simple change can make a lot of difference!
Saturday, November 13, 2010
I was a bit surprised at how many people use the same, 180-200 gsm paper that I like to use, because usually, people tell me they use something a little thinner. ;o)
100-120 gsm seems to be a good runner up, but lots of people also seem to use regular printer paper, and although photo-/glossy paper may give a nice, shiny finish to your paper models, it doesn't seem to be very widely used amongst the people that voted...
You can still vote on the old polls if you haven't done so already, and if you did, here's a new question for you:
"What do you do with your paper models after making them?"
Don't hesitate to tell us a bit more about your choice in the comments!
Have fun voting!
Friday, November 12, 2010
Instead, the head will glue directly to his shoulders. The white plane on top of his head will keep it into shape until you glue his trademark Mario hat on.
The white plane will have a hole so you will be able to reach inside; it's a simple but very effective way to make glueing it all together a lot faster and easier. ;o)
I'll also change the mouth texture so he'll have his mouth open like a happy, little paper Mario. ;o)
Monday, November 8, 2010
Still, to make Mario look even more "classic", he really needed to hike up his overalls a little higher, and to pull his sleeves down.
They're small changes, but I think they're worth it!
Friday, November 5, 2010
But for a papercraft model, he can't be floating in air, so I'll make him stand on the tip of his shoe, with his other one in the air (hence the stand; this time I can't cheat a bit like I did with Majora's Mask's Postman ;o)
I often keep playing with the pose until the 3D model is done, though; on the computer, it's easy to adjust the pose, but once it's unfolded, it will take a lot more time to change it... ;o)
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Well, what better one-hundredth model? ;o)
"When are you gonna
make a Paper Mario?" ;o)
Stay tuned for more updates!
Friday, October 29, 2010
...and have fun building!
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Monday, October 25, 2010
I didn't really run into any problems either, so making the templates, final build and instructions shouldn't take too long, and the model should be ready for download in plenty of time for Halloween!
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Parts that you don't really get to see in the game (like the side of the coffin against the tomb's wall) are often simply not drawn in the 3D model, but of course in a paper model, you'll want to make a whole coffin again! ;o)
Collisions* often occur with character models (especially around the shoulders and hips and/or elbows and knees) but they're no problem in the virtual world of a computer game.
In fact, it usually solves the problem of having to create an often difficult connection between the different parts!
These are things you have to be on the lookout for, though, because in a paper model, parts can't collide of course, and they certainly can't be left floating in thin air like the roof of the tomb!
In order to be able to glue the parts together on the paper model without problems later on, the parts need to be connected properly in the 3D model first.
Often remodelling the parts is actually easier than trying to fix what's already there, but like with so many things, everybody has their own ideas about that of course. ;o)
Thursday, October 21, 2010
The four obelisks that surround the tomb are all a bit crooked, but of course I will leave them like that, because that's what makes them fit so well with the theme! ;o)
I did change their base, though, because the old one just didn't look right in a static paper model...
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
That way, it looks extra big and threatening, as if it were looming over your head as you approach the entrance, just like a haunted mansion in a cartoon...
It's not very difficult to create this effect in a 3D model, but don't treat the 3D software as a pencil!
Instead of drawing each slanted wall polygon by polygon, create a primitive* and simply stretch the walls inwards (I like to use the scaling tool for this, but everybody has their own preference ;o)
This way, once you break down more complex shapes into separate primitives, you can work fast and create any model you want by combining them! ;o)
(*primitives are the most basic of shapes, like spheres, cones, cylinders, cubes...)
Sunday, October 17, 2010
And this particular graveyard is double scary, too, because this one, is for the undead...
"Graveyard" might actually be a big word for just this one tomb, but I've always liked the graphical style of Warcraft III (leave that to Blizzard Entertainment ;o)
And with its scary, distorted walls, pagan obelisks and skulls adorning the entrance, I thought this Undead Graveyard might make a nice papercraft model for this year's Halloween!
Saturday, October 16, 2010
You didn't think I forgot about this one, did you? ;o)
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
So here's a new poll for you:
What kind of paper do you use for papercrafting?
Don't hesitate to tell us a bit more about your choice in the comments!
Have fun voting!
Monday, October 11, 2010
Stay tuned for the release!
Thursday, October 7, 2010
It also gives me the opportunity to properly rotate and align all the parts, so that I can place them next to each other as much as possible;
In the hand drawn version, I always leave plenty of room between the parts just to be sure, because I often don't know exactly how big the parts will be, and you don't want to have the parts end up overlapping each other of course! ;o)
Another bonus of using a computer program to lay out the final templates properly, is that you don't have to draw symmetrical parts twice: you can simply copy and mirror them, which is a lot faster! ;o)
Sunday, October 3, 2010
After that, it was just a matter of painting and glueing on the landing gears and putting on the decals, before giving the model a double coat of clear finish.
It isn't a very difficult model, but personally I think the SR-71 is a very smexy-looking plane...! ;o)
So with that project pretty much done, I also made good progress on my new papercraft Advance Wars Green Earth Tank:
After drawing all the parts with a pencil first and making sure they fit properly, I traced the parts with a black pen, and after that, I coloured the parts with markers so I can scan them to make the templates.
Friday, October 1, 2010
But as you can see, the black colour of the plastic parts is pretty scruffy looking, so before I glue on those, I will first spray paint the hull a nice, glossy black (using a spray can will give a much better looking effect than using a brush).
Because I already painted the inside of the wheel bays a nice, iron metallic colour (91) and the cockpit windows need to stay transparant of course, I carefully taped up these parts before spray painting the model.
Why the thing isn't finished already?
Well, because I've also been busy with other things. ;o)
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
It's a plastic model kit that I've been wanting to make for ages now already (I don't think Revell even makes it anymore... ;o)
It doesn't have too many pieces, though, and not a lot of painting (the thing is called "Blackbird" for a reason) so I'll be back to doing paper models in no time! ;o)
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Majora's Mask Clocktown Postman: does he really always ring twice?
You can get the parts and instructions for the Postman (leave out the backpack and hat to build the Running Man from Ocarina of Time) and the mailbox from: www.kickme.to/ninjatoes
(in the Zelda section, obviously ;o)
Have fun building!
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
You can usually get more parts on one page if you don't do that, but I always think it can offer a lot of help to build the model.
Sometimes I want to give a little extra help, though, so I add little arrows or markings to show which glueing tab should connect to which edge.
If you make sure not to mix up any mountain and valley folds, and know which glueing tab goes where, pre-shaping it to glue it to the rest of the model will be much easier. ;o)
In this particular case, because the Postman's clothes are already white, I decided to give the glueing tabs on those parts a light, blueish colour.
That way it's much easier to see which parts are glueing tabs, and which pieces are actually part of the clothes. ;o)
The part numbers do more than tell you how much parts you have left. They're also there to show you the recommended build order.
For a lot of parts, it doesn't really matter, but sometimes it makes things a lot easier if you build them in a specific order, especially if it means you can still reach inside the model. ;o)
Everybody has their own personal preference on how to lay out the part templates of course, and I think you will find out which you like best easy enough just by playing around with it yourself. ;o)
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
As you can see, he is actually pretty well balanced, but the mailbox is also pretty much done, so I will release them together later this week, once I'm done with the instructions.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
So I don't think it will be on the final templates (you can always just cut out a triangle out of some black paper if you want to make your own of course ;o)
Some things that *will* be on the final templates, are Anju's letter to Kafei and Kafei's express mail to Mama: now that there's a mailbox, we also need some letters for the Postman to deliver of course! ;o)
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
The test build of the Postman revealed that he can stand just fine on his own, though, so you won't absolutely have to build the huge mailbox if you don't want to. ;o)
Monday, September 13, 2010
When I started the test build, I noticed that the parts were turning out much larger than I expected, and indeed I seem to have messed up the scale... ;o)
The Postman is supposed to be larger than young Link, but this really is too much...! ;o) I also started unfolding the mailbox, though, and even with the new, smaller scale, those parts will still be huge...!
Friday, September 10, 2010
Because this is only a test, I didn't bother with both arms, because they are very similar. The same could be said for the legs of course, but I had to build both of them to test the balance of the model.
At this stage, the Running Man from Ocarina of Time is pretty much tested and ready for fixing. To turn him into the Postman from Majora's Mask, I still need to do the Postman's hat and backpack, so stay tuned!
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
If you look closely, you can see some of the markings I made of things to fix. Not too many really, the legs are quite easy to make.
The biggest problem seems to be that I managed to mess up the scale, and right now it looks like the Postman will be *way* too big to be in the same scale as young Link...
Luckily, that will be a very easy fix. ;o)
Saturday, September 4, 2010
For the same reason, I also try to keep parts that are supposed to be glued together, close together on the template, so you can usually easily see which parts belong together.
This will make it much easier for others to build, and it's well worth the not 100% efficient use of the sheets I think. ;o)
Because this will be a test build, besides seeing if everything fits together properly without too much trouble and looks good, it's also a good opportunity to play around with glueing tab placement, fold line colours... stuff like that.
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
So while Link's cap is basically fused with his head (maybe that's the reason why Link cuts off the tip to stick his own, green cap through the hole? He simply can't take it off after all those adventures...! ;o) it makes sense that the Postman's Hat is removable.
I think I will leave it that way in the paper model. That way, by not building the backpack and the hat, you can also build the Running Man from Ocarina of Time. ;o)
Monday, August 30, 2010
In videogames, polygons often simply pass through eachother when the arm bends, but when those polygons will be made out of paper, they can't do that anymore of course.
This usually means you have to remodel these parts a bit, to create a more natural looking elbow and shoulder (well, for as far that's possible on a N64 era videogame character of course ;o)
Stay tuned for more updates!
Saturday, August 28, 2010
So what the Postman is doing with these sandals, is quite a mystery... ;o)
But he's got them, and I wanted to get rid of the small polygons around the ankles, to prevent unnecessary small parts on the paper model.
Stay tuned for more updates on my papercrafting process!
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
That way, you can already spot a lot of things that simply won't work in paper, but a lot of things are also simply personal preference (there is no set guide of rules for making a paper model the way you want to of course! ;o)
Because Pepakura Designer can only unfold what you feed it, if you want to change anything, you should do so in the 3D model first.
This was one obvious fix on the Postman, for example: although in a virtual game world, it's okay to have his legs dangle underneath his pants like this, in a paper model, they can't be floating in air (on young Link, I actually had to give him boxershorts to have something to attach his legs to... ;o)
There are many more things that need a look at of course, so stay tuned!
Saturday, August 21, 2010
But as you can probably imagine, a paper model balancing on one foot like that, is sure to tumble over... A stand is the obvious solution, and what better one for a Postman than a mailbox? ;o) I hope you like it!
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
So now I can start looking more closely to the model, to see which parts need fixing before you can make it out of paper, and which parts could simply be done a little easier.